Basic infomations about belt sander reviews to find the suitable belt sander

Belt sander is one of the most powerful machine you need in your tool box. It clears raw materials, turn into very smooth, flat surfaces within the shortest time. A belt sander’s assessed by many elements like speed, control, easy to use,… So, let’s take a comprehension through basic belt sander reviews

Belt sander size is very important when you sanding. The suitable size give the great abrasive affect to your stuff. The small things such as toys, knives, blades need the specific belt size and belt sander type to make sure the sander can sharpen well. Oppositely, if you have an big project, you should pick up an big belt size to make job finish quickly and professionally.


Belt sander don’t have a lots of types. It just have only 2 kinds are handheld and top bench belt sander. The handheld belt sander provides descendible feature to sanding everywhere with high power motor to smooth the rough materials even in corner or wall, floor,… however, with the special job need stable and fixed, the top bench belt sander seem to be more useful.

The range of belt sander price usually approximate from 40-2000$. The price base on the various of features and benefits users can get. But if you don’t need to sanding often. The cheap belt sander still alright.

To see more belt sander reviews, you should look for at the customers comments, questions and the issues relate to the product you want to buy. Research information and reviews is the fastest way to find the best belt sander for you. Because the reviews gives you the truthful looks and fully features of the products, the advantages, back draw, how to use, maintenance and also safety rules for working better and faster.



laminate florring types

How-to: flooring it

#1 Instead of refinishing motor-head Eric’s home-office hardwood floors, the Merge team gives them the winning look of the checkered flag at the end of a race. After a light sanding and mopping, apply a diluted wash (40 percent paint, 60 percent water) of black eggshell-finish latex, which allows the woodgrain to show. Seal with two coats of water-soluble satin-finish Varathane. A snap line device leaves accurate chalk lines on the floor to create 16-inch squares.


#2 Low-tack blue masking tape, commonly used by painters to create a clean, hard line and protect areas that shouldn’t be painted, is laid along the full length of each of the chalk lines drawn on the floor. Using a razor blade and a straight edge, carefully cut one 16-inch tape section out of every other square and reposition it on the other side of the chalk line to mask off the dark squares. This will create larger alternating squares that can then be painted silver.



#3 Mix a wash of the same silver paint used on the walls to fill in the larger squares. (Tip: Using a 2-inch flat brush, stroke in the direction of the wood gram. In order to see the grain through the silver paint, it’s safer to add too much water; you can always add another coat if you haven’t achieved the effect you’re after.) After the silver paint is dry, remove the tape in a quick, clean motion. To protect all that hard work, Kingery advises at least four coats of satin-finish Varathane.





Paneling in unexpected places

Any picture that flashes in your mind when someone says “plywood paneling’ is likely to be out of date. In the last couple of years, the range of patterns and colors available in prefinished panels has dramatically increased. You’re no longer limited to a selection of wood grains, whether real veneers or photographic reproductions. Now you can choose panels with bold or subdued patterns, stripes, floral, and pictorials that remind you of wallpaper. The newest paneling products reproduce such surfaces as grass cloth, woven-reed matting –even marble. And some of the designs are embossed to provide textures for even greater realism.


Unlike wallpaper, however, these panels give you a tough, durable surface that not only can be scrubbed, but resists dents and tears as well. And if you tire of the look after a time, you can always resurface with paint or paper.

Today’s broader choice in ply wood paneling inspired me to seek out projects in which the material would be used structurally–not just to cover a flat wall. The home improvements shown here are the result–all but one of them designed by Michael Cannarozzi for the Plywood Paneling Council and shot by Photography House. The exception is the divider arch on the previous page, which was created by Georgia-Pacific Corp., featuring its Firelight Forum oak paneling as an accent in the study alcove of an upstairs apartment. The alcove was created by framing a partition and facing both sides with matching paneling. Note that both the arch and window treatment echo the under-roof slant of the ceiling, their openings outlined in pine trim boards finished with an oak stain.


Most of the other projects shown in the photos (and sketched above) are compact enough to be framed in 2 2 lumber. You can join the 2 s with glue and flat head screws, or by bridging joints with metal plates on the inside. The paneling faces are then cut to cover the frame, and are applied with adhesive or colored nails–or a combination of both. Though usually only a little thicker than 1/8 inch, the paneling will stiffen the frame joints for a sturdy assembly. Most paneling comes in standard four-by-eight-foot sheets. For economical cutting, it’s best to lay out (on graph paper) scale drawings of the pieces you’ll need.

The lighted foyer achieves its dramatic recessed effect by means of a false wall framed and paneled six inches in front of the actual wall. The oak paneling has evenly spaced grooves (every eight inches) and is applied horizontally to both walls. Don’t waste paneling on the lower part of the rear wall, because only the top will show. The “planks’ of the front paneling are cut back in steps for a ziggurat effect, and a stick-on shelf light is mounted vertically behind every other step.

More concealed lighting is tucked under the paneling-faced top of the slab-on-cube table. The paneling here is real birch veneer finished with a transparent wipe-on stain.




Eight paneling projects to get you started (turn page for construction drawings) show range of patterns now available in plywood paneling, from actual or reproduced wood grains to wallpaper-like designs–even a combination of the two, as shown above. Most panels are prefinished, so once you’ve applied them (with nails or adhesive), the job is done.




LIGHT headed

The quest for street-wise 429/460 Ford cylinder heads is somewhat of a challenge. A 460 can be amplified to a gargantuan 10 liters (over 610 inches), so most heavy-breathing Ford cylinder heads reflect the cost and proportions associated with monster motors. High port heads require special valves, valve train, intake manifolds, headers, and pistons-a hassle and big expense for bolt-on enthusiasts; likewise for Boss 429 hemi heads. For street/strip duty, 429/460 disciples have to either get friendly with a die grinder or locate a set of rare 70-’71 429 Super Cobrajet SCJ) heads. Until now. AR Incorporated told HOT ROD about its newer-than-new AR 429 Cobrajet aluminum heads that will be available by the time you read this. They’re a simple bolt-on that can add 104 horsepower and 43 lbs.-ft. of torque, according to dyno tests. The AR Cobrajet heads and a matched intake manifold will be available direct from AR or through Ford Motorsport. Re Motorsport part numbers will be M-6049-A429 for the heads and M-9424-E429 for the intake manifold. The heads list at $1395 (bare) or $1795 (complete) with one-piece swirl-polished valves, single dampened springs, moly retainers, machined keepers, and pushrod guideplates.

Jon Kaase of Jon Kaase Racing dyno’d Ar’s new CobraJet offerings, and you’ll find the results on page 54. Here’s how it went:


First, Kaase baselined a crate 460 with 9.0:1 flattop pistons and a 780-cfm Holley. The hydraulic cam had .480-inch lift on both lobes, 215/220 degrees of duration at .050-inch tappet lift, and a 108-degree lobe separation angle. The heads were small-valve (2.080/1.650-inch), large chamber (96cc) units that are typical of ’72-and-newer passenger-car heads. Ford delivered the engine with an iron CobraJet intake. The CJ manifold performs better than stockers, even though the port match to stock heads is terrible. The out-of-the-box 460 produced 356 hp at 5100 rpm and 445 lbs.-ft. of torque at 3300 rpm.


The next step was to add AR Cobrajet heads, which improved flow and increased compression to 10.5:1 due to the smaller chamber volume. The head swap alone produced 460 hp at 5400 rpm and 488 lbs.-ft. of torque at 4400 rpm-an improvement of 104 hp and 43 lbs.-ft. While peak torque rpm increased by 1100 rpm, torque also improved by at least 32 lbs.-ft. at each point below the torque peak.


For the next test, Kaase bolted up the AR aluminum dual-plane intake and an 830-cfm Holley. ne dyno reported 491 hp at 5600 rpm and 505 lbs.-ft. of torque at 4400 rpm. This 31 horsepower increase came without penalty as the rpm at peak horsepower increased by only 200 rpm. The torque peak rpm remained constant, while peak torque increased by 17 lbs.-ft.


To see how the AR heads respond to a bigger cam, Kaase slipped in a Ford Motorsport model (part No. 625O-A443) with .560/.580-inch lift, 234/244-degrees duration at.050-inch tappet lift, and 108-degrees lobe separation angle. Power increased to 552 hp at 6300 rpm and 532 lbs.-ft. of torque at 4700 rpm. This demonstrated the AR heads’ ability to flow, but low-end torque suffered due to the larger cam.


The final evaluation was with a .701-inch lift roller cam (Motorsport part No. 625O-B460). Duration was an equally wild 264/274 degrees at .050-inch tappet lift. Although this was not an optimized engine combination, it pumped out 650 hp at 6800 rpm and 542 lbs.-ft. of torque at 5500 rpm. That’s an increase of 294 hp and 96 lbs.-ft. just by changing cam, heads, intake, and carb!



Other Best Stand Mixers




Offers good results (egg whites whip up high; cake batters come out thoroughly mixed) at a bargain price. But you need to occasionally scrape the sides of the bowl for even mixing. The beaters are specially marked so they’re easy to insert in their proper holes. This model is also one of the quietest. Comes with 1 1/2- and 4-quart glass bowls.

MODEL: 41036  WEIGHT: 9 pounds SPEEDS: 12 CAN HANDLE: 4 cups of flour OTHER COLOR: chrome with stainless-steel bowls for $119.50




This solid performer is notable for a head that locks in the up position, preventing it from accidentally falling down when you stop to stir. It ties with the West Bend for quietest mixer. The cord can be pushed inside the base for easy storage. Also comes with 2- and 4-quart stainless-steel bowls and a handy mixing guide above the control dial, Weak spot: The owner’s manual offers few tips and no starter recipes.

MODEL: Chefmix 60690  WEIGHT: 8 pounds SPEEDS: 14 CAN HANDLE: 6 to 7 cups of flour OTHER COLORS: none



This sleek, chrome model prepares bread dough faster (by Up to 3 minutes) than others in its category. It comes with 1 1/2- and 4-quart stainless-steel bowls. A guide on the control dial indicates which speed to use for each chore. The instruction book is especially helpful and filled with recipes to get you started. When tackling dense mixtures like stiff cookie dough, the mixer head bobs up and down and appears to be struggling, but it always does a great job.

MODEL: Mixmaster 2359  WEIGHT: 9 pounds SPEEDS: 12 CAN HANDLE: 3 1/2 cups of flour OTHER COLOR: white with stainless-steel or glass bowls for $99.99

The Need to Knead?


Many bakers prefer the convenience of making bread with a mixer but feel guilty because, deep down, they believe that kneaded bread tastes better. We put this theory to the test: First, our home economists pummeled white, buttermilk, and whole wheat doughs with mixers from the heavy: and middleweight categories, then by hand. They found it hard to tell any difference in taste or texture among them One exception: Though it didn’t affect taste, loaves prepared by heavyweight mixer rose slightly higher.

What’s in a Watt?

The higher the wattage, the more powerful the mixer — and thus more desirable. Right? Wrong. The overall design, including the shape, of the bowl and how the attachments move, is more important to performance. As for decoding the wattage, here’s an easy way to we if a model has the power you need: Look for the maximum number of cups of flour or pounds of dough it can handle. You’ll find this information on the box, or ask to see the manual.

How We Chose

We put 11 stand mixers to work, whipping cream and egg whites, mashing potatoes, mixing oatmeal-raisin cookies from scratch, making cakes from mixes, and kneading bread dough. To test each model’s power, we measured the maximum amount of yeast dough it could handle and evaluated its ability to cream butter straight out of the refrigerator. We looked for little or no spattering, ease of operation, and useful owner’s manuals. Our engineers also checked the construction and measured wattage, speed, and noise levels.

Hand or Stand?

Hand mixers are, well, handy. They’re inexpensive, ranging from $20 to $80, easy to store, and can do everything a stand mixer can (some can even knead dough). If you’re a holiday baker or mostly make cakes from mixes and occasionally whip up a cup of cream for berries, a hand mixer is all you need. But if you bake a lot, especially bread, you’ll find a stand mixer well worth the money. They do almost everything faster and with a minimal amount of effort — all you have to do is flip switch.

(*) All prices are manufacturers’ suggested retail; most stores mark them down by as much as 40 percent, so shop around.



Buyer’s guide: stand mixers

Baking is a breeze when you leave the tough tasks to a stand mixer. It does all the work in less time and rewards you with lighter cakes, fluffier whipped cream, and taller loaves of bread than you can get by hand or with a handheld electric mixer. We recommend mixers designated as heavy-weight (they handle 8 or more cups of flour and cost the most*) or middleweight (most mix 3 to 4 cups of flour). The lightweight models (they’re the ones you can detach from their stands to use as hand mixers) are the least expensive, but they aren’t durable enough for the rigors of frequent use and large quantities of ingredients.

Here, our 6 picks:


Large and powerful enough to knead dough for 2 loaves of bread in 2 minutes, the outstanding performances of KitchenAid mixers have earned them their reputation as the premium brand. Each model offers 10 speeds, varying from slow enough to stir dry ingredients to fast enough to whip egg whites in under 3 minutes. They all come with a single flat beater for cookie and pie dough and mashed potatoes, a wire whip for whipped cream and delicate cakes, a dough hook for kneading, and a stainless-steel bowl. The bowl remains stationary while the attachments (shown left) both spin and move around the bowl. There’s a large selection of optional accessories, including a food grinder, pasta extruder, and grain mill. KitchenAid is also the only company to offer a 1-year total replacement warranty; it will even pick up a problem mixer and deliver a new one.


kitchenaid classic


This basic model comes with a 4 1/2-quart bowl and enough power to knead bread dough quickly and easily. Like the other KitchenAids, it whips up tender yellow cakes, crisp oatmeal cookies loaded with raisins and nuts, and lofty whipped, cream and meringues. Most home bakers will find this more than adequate for their needs.

MODEL: K45SS ;WEIGHT: 23 pounds CM HANDLE: 8 cups of flour OTHER COLOR: almond




Identical in size and design to the Classic, but has a little more oomph so it finishes tasks quicker. Its 4 1/2-quart bowl has a handle, making it easier to remove and pour out the contents. Also comes with a plastic shield that wraps around the bowl’s rim to prevent spattering when adding ingredients while the mixer is running.

MODEL: KSM90 ;WEIGHT: 23 pounds CAN HANDLE: 8 cups of flour OTHER COLORS: green, black, gray, red, yellow, teal, white, almond, metallic chrome, and black chrome




With its 5-quart bowl and ability to knead up to 10 cups of flour (enough for 3 loaves), this is for serious bakers who want maximum power. Like professional mixers, the head doesn’t lift up. Instead, the bowl hooks onto side arms and is raised (when mixing) and lowered (when removing) by turning a crank. Also comes with a pouring shield. Note: This model is 17 inches high, while others are 12 to 14.

MODEL: KSM5  WEIGHT: 26 pounds CAN HANDLE: 10 cups of flour OTHER COLORS: blue, gray, black, white, and almond


These should easily meet the needs of those who make mostly cakes and cookies — and they’re a lot less expensive. With whisklike beaters, they produce smoother, less lumpy mashed potatoes than their heavier cousins. And though they take almost as long to knead dough as it would by hand, they still save you from breaking a sweat. At under 10 pounds, these mixers are also light enough to tuck away in a cabinet when not in use.

The models below come with all-purpose beaters, dough hooks (shown right), and small and large bowls (handy for recipes that call for two-part mixing). Minor inconveniences: The beaters can trap ingredients during mixing, so you have to stop occasionally to scrape them down. And depending on the amount of ingredients (to light or heavy), the bowls, which spin, may need to he turned by hand.